Southend Bach Choir - Visit to Cologne, Germany

by Jen Barham

Before I went on this visit I am ashamed to say that I had to look up Cologne in an atlas to see that it is not too far over the border into Germany.

The Choir had had the pleasure of singing "The Messiah" with the Cologne Bach Choir in Southend three years ago. We were glad to be able to respond to their invitation to sing Vivaldi's "Gloria" with them under our conductor Colin Edwards, in the beautiful baroque church of Brauweiller Abbey.

Fifty to sixty choir members went, most people travelling by coach; to be greeted on arrival by the Chairman of the Cologne Choir Herr Uwe Riedel. They had arranged a Reception supper for us, for which we were very grateful. Some people had been offered hospitality by choir members, most stayed at a hotel.

On the first day in Germany it had been decided that we would visit Rüdesheim and take the Riverboat trip on the Rhine to Koblenz. The weather was perfect; we spent most of the trip outdoors in the warm sun viewing other river traffic and the towns and castles all along the bank. We also saw many vineyards, which we could only pass with regret! I have never seen so many castles. Most were perched precariously on outcrops of rock. The logistics of building them must have been very difficult and not least in repairing them. Many of them had some or all of the building surrounded by scaffolding. We passed the Lorelei rocks and heard the song. We were not lured onto them, but a boat the next day did lose its steering and founder on the rock with passengers injured. A great deal of this was due to the lack of depth of the water in the river - the lowest since 1959. We counted ourselves very fortunate.

Saturday was for visiting the city of Cologne. A guided tour of the Dom, the Cathedral had been arranged. Our guide was very clear in explaining how the construction of this immense building had been completed over more than a thousand years, area by area according to the religious and political power of each century. The result was a beautiful and fascinating building. Full of the light that was intended to celebrate the Gospel that they believed and worthy of their aspirations in piety, and richness.

After a cheerful and noisy lunch, at which some found that they people had ordered more food than they bargained for! There was a rehearsal for us all and the orchestra. It was quickly obvious that the orchestra was going to be a very professional support to the singing. The comparatively youthful, strong voices of the Cologne Choir were blended with the smoothness of tone brought by the Southend Choir. The sound was very good and we settled to enjoying singing under our conductor. We looked forward with pleasure to the forthcoming concert.

On Sunday, We were taken on a guided tour by the Historian of the famous Brauweiller Abbey, just outside Cologne. This collection of baroque buildings formed a harmonious whole, beautiful to the eye in its symmetry and regularity. It had been built by a pious Polish princess. In the Refectory underneath, we saw medieval wall and ceiling paintings, heard about the lives of the Benedictine monks. The place had been used as a Catholic/ Protestant prison during many wars. We heard how the arches and pillars from half of the cloisters went on a Pan-European tour from one military conqueror or king to another - as a present! No-one knew what to do with them; would you?! They languished in various cellars and are now installed elsewhere.

Our guide explained about the Nazi prison that had been built in the grounds and its bad reputation. The account was told to us with much realism and pain in his voice. He was brave to be so true to his own country's recent history. We respected him so much for being prepared to do that.

On a lighter note, we were taken to a beautiful salon with wonderful plasterwork of allegorical themes and beautiful crystal chandeliers. We heard again how the abbey buildings had been subject to many vicissitudes as the various 18th and 19th Century military rulers conquered and reconquered the town. Now, we could see it was used for concerts; a more pleasant venue was hard to imagine.

That afternoon was the climax of our visit. First of all, a rehearsal, which, like many dress rehearsals, was less than satisfactory, for everyone. We hoped that the tradition would be true; that it would be a really good concert.

The concert programme started with a fine performance of Bach organ music. The organ and the church were really built for such music. Bach in all his technical glory was heard as intended.

The Cologne choir sang a Bach Chorale superbly. We, the visiting choir, were able to enjoy, as well as take part in, the concert, before we joined them to sing the "Gloria". Under the direction of Colin Edwards, we all gave a superb performance. The applause went on for many minutes and our visit and hard work were justified. We were tired but happy! All that remained now was for us all to join in the wonderful celebration meal arranged by the Cologne choir.

We must give our great thanks our own Lizza Hodgkins and Uwe Riedel for taking so much time and trouble to make our stay so enjoyable and of course Colin Edwards for his patient and professional and inspiring musical guidance.

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